Jointing Tips Compiled by Richard Nice

1. Edge jointing boards with biscuits. One method I use a lot is to plane up the boards making sure the edges are square. Then router a slot along the length of the board on the edges, stopping short of the ends so that the joint will not show. The router cutter I use is for use with biscuits and it is then a simple matter to insert the correct number of biscuits for the length of the groove. On thick boards you can run two grooves for extra strength. This method of jointing has the advantage that you use the full width of the boards with no loss of width in jointing which would be the case in tongue and groove joint.

2. Sawing half a saw kerf. When you have to take off a slight amount with a hand saw, if you have miss cut a dovetail or tenon. Simply place a piece of waste wood behind the work piece and recut the joint correctly the waste piece will hold the saw on line and stop it sliding off. Very effective and simple.

3. Marking out Joints. Make sure you mark out the joints correctly and mark out the waste so that it is clear to you which is the waste side of the line to cut to. As shown below.

4. Screw Blocks. As seen above the screw blocks should be set with a slight gap to allow for the play in the screw holes so that the top can be pulled down firmly, if this is not allowed for the top can pull the block up so that there is a gap between the top and the rails.

5. Pocket Screwing. Is where a hole is angled between 12 and 15 degrees as shown above. The hole counter bored for the head of the screw at a slight angle, normally through a jig cramped to the surface to be drilled to hold the drill in place and at the correct angle, otherwise the drill will run all over the place. If a depth collar is fitted to the drill any marks will be on the jig and not the work as shown. Round headed screws are the best for this application.