Veneering Tips Compiled by Richard Nice

1. Hand veneering with PVA, having just successfully veneered a bar front with curved ends 30"H X 96"L with a veneered plinth 6"H with a cold setting PVA glue and a veneer hammer. The method of working was to dampen the veneer with a wet cloth before using a glue spreader/roller to apply the glue to the groundwork. The veneer by this time had expanded and was then applied to the groundwork and was work with a veneer hammer from the center to the out side edges. When it was deemed flat the veneer was taped to restrict it shrinking any minor irregularities were removed as the veneer shrank. The veneer had a paper backing to it and came it a 4' X 8' sheet. This method worked extremely well. The reason to wet the veneer is to keep it balanced, PVA contains water therefore I needed to apply the same amount of water to the outside of the veneer. Just try wetting one side of a piece of paper and see what happens.

Scotch Gluing, when hand veneering with a veneer hammer as opposed to pressing or caul veneering ( with a warm platen). the most important points are :-

2.Temperature of the glue

(if it is too cold it won't run therefore you cannot squeeze out the surplus glue). Too hot and the pot will boil over and stink out the workshop (and if this happens to be the kitchen, I suggest you start packing straight a way! )

3. Temperature of the iron

(if it is too cold it won't warm the glue, therefore you cannot squeeze out the surplus glue ). Too hot and the glue will burn ( Very smelly at least) and stick to the sole of the iron in some cases the veneer will weld itself to the sole of the iron, thus ruining the veneer and achieving the opposite of what you intended.

4. The consistency of the glue

Must run smoothly from a brush held at 6" or 150mm approx high. If too thick the glue will not run but form blobs. If too thin the glue will splash when the glue hits the surface of the glue in the pot.

5. An Iron with a steel sole

Will stain woods such as walnut, oak and yew due to the tannic acid in the timber reacting with the iron or steel, therefore be very careful when and how you use wirewool. Most modern irons have an aluminum sole.

6. The bluey black staining caused by steel on oak ( as above)

Can be removed by using oxalic acid as follows :-

Oxalic acid is a poison. Used chiefly for bleaching wood and for removing stains. It is bought in the form of small crystals, these being dissolved in warm water. Being a poison, care should be taken not to leave it about, as it looks just like sugar extreme caution should be use near children, avoid contact with the fingers. If this cannot be avoided wash well after using. Method 1 Dissolve 1 oz. oxalic acid crystals in 1/2 pint hot water. Apply to work with rag. Several applications may be needed. Wipe over with borax, about 1 oz. to 1/2 gallon water. Wash with clear water and dry. Method 2 Dissolve 1 oz. oxalic acid crystals in 1/2 pint hot water. Apply to work with rag tied to a stick of beech (or wood with little colour and tannin acid content not mahogany or oak ) Several applications may be needed. Leave until dry. Wipe over thoroughly with a damp cloth to remove the white residue. Never sand the item before wiping away this residue as it will attack your throat and sinuses causing a sever sneezing fit.

7. Removing Scotch Glue or Hide glue

Hot wet towel or better still an old dish cloth wetted with hot water will remove the surplus glue from your work and dry off the work with a dry towel.

8. Scraping while the glue is soft

After the surplus glue has been cleaned off and before the joints are tape up lightly run over the veneered surface with a cabinet scraper, this will leave the surface in a good condition ready to hand scrape or sand, so that the surface is ready to finish.

9. Taping joints

All joints should be taped after being cleaned up as they will tend to open as the timber dries out, use a water based adhesive tape, white veneering tape is best or the brown parcel tape. Leave a day to dry out and then soak off the tape.